COSMÉTICOS NATURAIS: O que Químicos acham sobre CLEAN BEAUT

COSMÉTICOS NATURAIS: O que Químicos acham sobre CLEAN BEAUTY? 🍃

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god oh come on video a Michel a gent Angie save so very clean beer hello my name is Jen and I'm the director at the Eco L online where science communication platform we do educational posts through our social media and have a science podcast and th e other half of our business is dedicated to formulation development I am cosmetic chemists and I work with brands to develop the formulations in their bottles hi my name is Michelle I have a PhD in chemistry and I talk about the science behind beauty

products at lab mahan beauty science people have different definitions from company to company to person to person the idea behind it is that these products will be safer for health and for the environment and now general frameworks for clean beauty you can look at like sephora's clean clean at Sephora or whatever they're calling it or the ewg or whoever you're going to go and like certify or define clean it's usually fraught with misinformation basic tox illogical misunderstandings such as the

dose makes the poison and so at the end of the day the reality of clean beauty is its marketing typically marketing from fear fear is an incredibly effective marketing strategy because if you say that this product is clean i t's free from X then consumers are gonna be like oh this must be safer and all these other products that contain X must be unsafe it perpetuates a lot of misinformation but it certainly attracts consumers who just want to buy the safest product I mean there's so many people

saying that their cosmetic products are gonna kill them give them breast cancer harm their family and so it just makes sense for consumers to respond in this way I personally think that the whole clean Beauty mov ement and marketing behind it is quite unethical and it really just perpetuates misinformation there is no agreed-upon definition of clean Beauty the way it usually works is that a brand will have a list of ingredients that they consider joshiy clean products according to them our

products that gern contained these ingredients the specific ingredients in these lists depends on the brand different brands will have different ingredients but usually they are synthetic ingredients that have been linked to some sort of health effect in the study the problem is these studies usually weren't done on humans so for example they might have been done on cells in a dish and in vitro study or they might be done on animals like mice and fish that are very different from humans the word

organic and marketing usually refers to a method farming that doesn't use synthetic pesticides or genetically modified organisms GMOs the exact details of what is and isn't allowed in orga nic farming depends on what the certifying organization is the word natural means that it comes from nature with little or no variation the Chum natural is a bit confusing because it's hard to draw the line between what is natural and what is synthetic for example a lot of natural products use natural extracts

that are highly processed or they might even use synthetic versions of a naturally occurring compound there are also some ingredients that are extremely natural that are usuall y excluded from natural products like petroleum jelly the word vegan means that a product doesn't include animal derived ingredients this includes things that don't necessarily involve killing an animal so for example lanolin from wool and milk aren't vegan the word non-toxic is an incredibly confusing term in beauty the

word toxic usually means that it can cause harm to humans if we inhale it or swallow it or if it's absorbed through our skin but obviously we don't inhale or eat la rge amounts of beauty products regularly and everything is toxic in a large enough dose this is called the concept of the dose makes the poison it is pretty meaningless to have the label non toxic in beauty products it implies that other products are toxic when in reality the vast majority of beauty products have never caused

humans any serious harm organic really indicates that it depends really depending on where you're putting this product because in the United States if y ou say organic you should probably be certified otherwise you're putting your brand at risk for a litigation so I'll just maybe stick to the states so if you are organic you're probably going to be USDA organic or potential eco cert Eco cert cosmos is the certifier elsewhere other than North America and that indicates that you're using

natural plant-based ingredients derived from organic agriculture and so certified agriculture ultimately though organic Beauty means that yo u're using a higher amount of organic certified ingredients and that is that Federer I mean there's a lot of debate whether organic agriculture is even worse for the environment than conventional agriculture because it takes up more land I mean this is a really big topic because it's generally better to just leave the land alone and now is this ingredient

harvested with intent of making cosmetic products or is it harvested in food and then used for cosmetic products there's a big d ifference there but ultimately that's what organic Beauty means that I mean the definition of natural varies from company to individual to organization I would probably refer to the ISO standard which word an ingredient to be all natural it must be sourced like it might must be pretty much essentially the same in nature you haven't done much other than physically

extract the material but the chemical is the same such as with example of essential oils you're really just steam di stilling it out of or cold pressing it out of the plant to get this material so by that definition that would be natural it could also be from the ISO standard derive by a fermentation and then you could be naturally derived which by the ISO standard its source from nature but it's chemically different and so an example could be during the saponification of oils you're changing say

coconut oil and with the input of sodium hydroxide you make this new chemical sodium Co Co 8 so that wou ld be an example of a naturally derived and at that point you probably shouldn't say that it's still all natural I mean companies are doing it and then all the way to synthetic now what's not natural because usually when people look at them that are concluding the ISO standard they deem petrochemicals so something derived from petrochemicals or something like silicones are just

non-renewables although they're flexible with their non-renewable such as clays but things l ike that that they just do you not to be natural are considered synthetic I mean they are clearly from major but that is what the ISO standard looks at and so when you're looking at what's natural beauty I would probably refer to that so natural beauty is essentially just using plant-based ingredients I haven't changed very much from what they are in nature or may be naturally derived Beauty might be a

better way to look at most products because most products aren't possible with 1 00% natural ingredients so it would be more naturally derived you there aren't any organizations that regulate clean beauty even though there are some retailers that have made their own categorizations for what isn't isn't clean a lot of friends refer to the Environmental Working Group for their classifications of ingredients the problem with this is that the environmental working group the ewg they aren't really

scientific they're classifications of ingredients don't really align ed with what toxicologists think they don't have a toxicologist on their staff and the methods they use for categorizing ingredients isn't what standard in science the whole concept of classifying an ingredient as dirty or clean is very very flawed for any ingredient the dose makes the poison a large enough amount of any ingredient will be harmful and so by that measure every single ingredient should be on the dirty list vegan

what's vegan beauty so vegan is I mean you're using no a nimal derived materials and so vegan beauty can be synthetic but it doesn't include things like beeswax which are derived from I mean animals have to work at it I guess so it's not actually coming from the animal itself but it's coming from they're really like byproducts of no animal by-products included lanolin for example wouldn't be allowed carmine which is from beetles that wouldn't be allowed and so I mean people think that cosmetic

products are killing them and that products are toxic there is so much misinformation on this topic the whole trend is based off of misinformation and based off of things that are being put out by people that just have no idea what they're talking about so the dog dose makes the poison at some point there has to be some trust speaking of scientists behind your products and the products that you have but I mean I'm just gonna say that non-toxic non-toxic it's just a bunch of pseudoscience and I

probably say the same thing abou t clean beauty are there organizations that regulate clean beauty no no one really regulates clean beauty I mean there are regulators that regulate the safety of cosmetic products and they vary internationally depending on where you are but clean Beauty as I've already said clean media is just a bunch of marketing now there are like certifications or standards that you can go and look at such as clean at Sephora or the ewg standards or I mean there are so many

coming on the market keep in mind these certifications make money by selling you misinformation getting products to buy their certification or buy into it at least I wouldn't say anyone's regulating it probably more people could be regulating the standards but that's just not currently happening but regarding clean media is not regulated because it's just built on misinformation so like the people behind your regulations or sign and that doesn't really relate to science it's just

marketin g chemicals can be natural or synthetic anything that you can touch or applies your skin is made of chemicals nature contains tons and tons of chemicals imperfectly clean air there's nitrogen oxygen argon carbon dioxide in a single piece of fruit there will be thousands of chemicals theoretically you can make any chemical that you found in nature in a lab and your body would not be able to tell the difference there's a concept that what's natural is safer but in reality the most toxic
chemicals are actually natural botulinum toxin for example is the most toxic chemical we know and that is made by bacteria so whether something is synthetic or natural doesn't tell us very much about how something will impact our skin or our health we humans have a bias towards thinking what is natural is better but in reality this just doesn't work everything is a chemical well all matter should I say is chemical from you as a person you're made up of chemicals of coffee you drink this morn ing

to every single ingredient in your cosmetic product is a chemical natural products and safer than synthetic products will clean whatever no and a lot of the times it's actually the opposite so of most for example allergenic ingredients using cosmetic products a lot of them come from natural ingredients natural ingredients can also be talked since they can also be carcinogens that I mean you can't just make an assumption that because it's natural it's better I mean that's a fallac y a natural

fallacy to make the assumption that natural is just inherently better that's just not true there are so many things in nature just think about it you go run out into poison ivy I mean that's a natural ingredient synthetic ingredients I mean you can think of something like dimethicone for example I mean that is an over it's an inert material and it's also very safe or mineral oil even it's inert and also very safe very unlikely to cause any kind of skin reaction now co mpare that to an old leg

acid rich oil well I mean that can be sensitizing to some people I mean then back in cars and allergy that can also go rancid faster and if it goes rancid in the formulation that could lead to microbial contamination down the line because the whole product becomes unstable because of this natural material essential oils for example are natural they can be very very irritating I solution all found in rose essential oil is a known carcinogen you can obviousl y account for this in formulation but it

you can't just make it an assumption that because it's natural it's going to be safer I mean you have to look at the whole like you have to critically assess every ingredient at you're going to be using in a formulation like reality check there isn't like some line in the sand that this ingredient is going to be natural and this ingredient isn't going to be natural despite the ISO standard I mean I don't know if I even agree with it but at the end of the day natural or clean whatever tells

you nothing about the safety of the material you have you have to actually critically assess that so thoughts on the ewg I mean the database is built on misinformation it does not represent what scientists think there was actually a survey from about a thousand talks a toxicologist about a decade ago and overwhelmingly they agreed that the WG overstated the risks from chemicals in their database I mean their database also is riddled with chemical literacies or chemistry literacies for example

in their database sodium lauryl sulfate is considered a bad ingredient that sodium cocoa solid phase which is very very similar has a better rating and they just don't seem to understand the difference that there's just a lot of information a lot of misinformation or an SLS so they're going to make the assumption that it's worse their studies in their citations range from non locatable there were a number of studies that I just couldn't find and I mean that's concerning because I mean you

can only assume that they're just trying to fill up their references to make them seem better because nobody's going to look into it or they are using studies that may be not applicable such as they're using animal models that have a high dosage that's injected in trying to make a statement about the safety of save parabens for an injection ingredient at 100 percent versus in a cosmetic product you're applyin g it at a level that's like usually below 0.4% there is a difference correlative studies

they're using studies that for example the width parabens find parabens in breast cancer tissue with a Darbar study in 2004 a small sample might ice add they are making assumptions based off of correlative data just because it's in tissue doesn't mean that it's causing harm or they are saying things that are the opposite from what is in the studies that they've referenced so to say that for exampl e methylparaben in their database entry is endocrine-disrupting they cited the SCC s opinion on

parabens I believe it was from 2011 and so they were using that to say that it caused an endocrine disruption but in the study the study said that parabens does not cause or the approved parabens using cosmetics at least do not cause endocrine disruption to my knowledge when the ewg s database was put together and wasn't even put together by scientists and I mean it's obvious the dose makes the poison if they had actual toxicologist the area of study that's relevant to what they're trying to

communicate put that together they probably would have put together something very different now there's like hope that this is going to be changing in the next a little bit but from what's in the database right now it is not a reliable place to get information most clean products are just free from synthetic ingredients but a lot of the time the synthetic versions are a lo t more sustainable than natural versions a lot of the time the reason why we make a synthetic replacement for a

natural thing is because the natural chemical requires lots of resources to gather and make nature often doesn't make enough of an ingredient for us to take it sustainably that means that we have to farm the ingredient farming has a massive negative impact on nature agriculture requires the use of lots of land and that usually means that you have to clear up som e land you have to get rid of some forest that means that we have a negative impact on the amount of carbon dioxide in the air which is

a massive contribution to climate change there's also the fact that there's lots of processes that require lots of energy so for example irrigation transporting water to water the plants on a farm there's also producing fertilisers and harvesting a lot of the time natural ingredients can only be produced in a small part of the world and so that means you need to transport the ingredient from the farm to wherever you're making the product to whoever's consuming the product and all of

this transport produces lots and lots of carbon dioxide no it doesn't natural doesn't mean sustainable either people assume that the clean beauty movement means eco-conscious but it just doesn't it perpetuates some misinformation and then using that misinformation to direct how we make products not necessarily products that are going to b e safer and certainly not products that are going to be more sustainable for example they make assumptions that natural will be more sustainable and that's just

not always the case sometimes natural ingredients come with like huge environmental burden for example with essential oils for car like 10,000 pounds of plant material with a case of rose essential oil to make a single pound of essential oil in what world especially the rising demand of aromatherapy will not ever be sustainabl e some natural ingredients are taking 4 taken from endangered crops such as sandalwood the time to fruition for these plants are that the regrowth takes like decades to

come to a point of maturity where you can actually extract the material can that ever be sustainable so it with natural ingredients if you're harvesting plants with intention of only using them in cosmetic products I don't see how that could ever be sustainable especially when you're comparing a synthetic ingredien ts mineral oil for example it is derived from petrochemicals but it is a waste product it would be there with or without the sourcing to produce mineral oil so using something as

a waste product versus using something that is in waste you're producing it with a sole intent of making cosmetic products you could think of like jojoba oil for example there's also a lot of other things going on when you're producing natural ingredients like don't be disillusioned that there isn't goi ng to be petrochemicals in your natural ingredients because how much petrol is required for the tractors that till the land or the trucks that transport the material or the vessels that extract

the natural ingredients and produce something viable and in this case the petrol that's used isn't waste so that's something to be really critical of I think when Nash ingredients can be sustainable four-mile like for my advantage it would be when their waste products of industry and there a re a lot of examples of this unfortunately consumers have been misled to deem these as less less sustainable for example with widely grown crops such as corn or soy or rapeseed so they're already used in

food we have a lot of it and there's a ton of waste being produced from it as well so instead of just letting it to go to waste why don't we produce viable ingredients from it and that is happening quite a bit but as soon as consumers will learn that always coming from soy they m ake an assumption that sway is bad and so this is going to be bad and that's just not the case it's probably going to be better than harvesting an ingredient with the sole intent of cosmetic of producing an ingredient

and natural ingredient and using all this land with a sole intent of being used for cosmetics other examples are like in the lumber industry you can use waste products from lumber and produce for example bed chillin or a number of other cosmetic ingredients of the ext racts that you can use it as active ingredients so that would be a more sustainable natural ingredient rather than the alternative that the industry likes to perpetuate especially if it's like organic that takes a lot more land so

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